Climbing Inside Austin

One of the most amazing things about Austin is the greenbelt, a series of public parks that intersperse downtown. On the greenbelt there is even climbing.

Katie Crushing!

The climbing in a word is unique. The rock is limestone but it has been so heavily trafficked that all the holds are nearly textureless. I overgripped everything and spent most of my mental energy convincing myself that yes that foot will hold. Beka crushed her longstanding project and Katie after a six week got back her game and led some scary routes.

Beka on Over Easy

The most fun line was the one least traveled by a 5.10c face climb with a dyno to a 20 ft traverse on a horizontal roof flake with pockets. It was really fun to work and different from anything I had climbed before.

Cutting Cards 5.12a

The next day we came back out and did some night climbing because it is so hot in Texas. There is a drought and a heat spell that is abnormal even for here. It 106 pretty much everyday, so climbing is best early in the morning and at night. We make do with siestas and enormous quantities of water.

Road Trippin It

I know it's been a while since I posted but Katie and I left Atlanta to drive to Austin, Texas. So in a word Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiania and Texas are incredibly boring to drive through. The most interesting thing we saw in all three states was this pictures somewheres in rural Mississippi:

A Cow's Vagina

Our plan was to stop somewhere halfway camp out and drive the rest of the way the next day bit that plan failed. Stopping in a Wal-Mart parking lot in Monroe, LA we tried to get some sleep but it was so hot that after a few hours I got back up and kept driving. We reached Austin in the morning and spent the rest of the day sleeping.

It Is Written

Just quick post so I won't forget. One of my longstanding projects went down. Junior and I went for a couple hours to the dump. I sent Unwritten Law 5.12b/c second go that day and it was so satisfying.

An interesting note is that I believe if I didn't execute perfectly second go I probably would have hit the ground. We were using one of Juniors old ropes and we checked before each of us climbed the first time but our second attempts we forgot. After our first attempts neither one of us took the huge whipper at the dyno move up top the rest of the day. So at the end of the day when we found a core-shot section of rope in which I could stick my finger into the middle of the core, we were a little awestruck. I have seen a few core shots before but this was the worst I've seen by far. I'm nearly positive it would have snapped with the force of the dyno fall up top.

I executed and, consequently, was not executed by the ground.

Wonderlust in Wonderland

For anyone who has not been down to the boulders in Linville Gorge; to you I say stop reading this and go now. Dean Melton said it best in Dosage One:

Preach the Good Word About Boone, Dean!

On Friday, Justin, Dalton and I sped down Spence Ridge excited to get on some of that unique Linville quality rock. After trudging down the trail for close to two miles we found our campsite on the river, a huge patio boulder sitting directly over the trail, hidden up high but in plain sight. We spent the entire rest of the afternoon exploring and sampling the wide variety of problems in the river. By the evening we were beat.

One of my favorite aspects of climbing in the gorge is how physical everything is. The hike down clears nearly 1000 feet of elevation. Just walking between boulders is tiring and dangerous because you are rock hopping constantly. Furthermore, getting seriously hurt is not an option because the only way out is by helicopter.

Millions of Boulders, Boulders for Me

The next morning we went to work. Hiking further upstream to another concentration, it took us half an hour to clear 300 yards. It was worth every minute. Sitting directly in the middle of river was a big black slab. Having been worn down by moving water, the texture was that of glass and even in our shoes we were sliding all over the place. I looked like a cartoon character getting a running start and getting half way up then sliding back down uncontrollably. Very unique and satisfying.

Scampers V?

Further up the river we found an amazing roof. Starting way back in a cave you go to a side pull crimp set one bad toe and then rotate your body backwards and outwards with only one hand and foot on, 270 degrees. The moves were so unique because the roof was more than horizontal at some points I actually climbed downward and out. The top out next to a tree with spikes in it eluded us but each move took immense body control and was completely worthwhile.

"I Got Your Spot"

On the way out we did some work Glory Nights and few others around the Glory Roof. That night we got rained on and in the morning all was wet. Ending the trip a little early was alright though because we were completely wiped. Hardman style we ran the last flat part after an intense uphill battle with our 40 pound packs on. Exhausted but still buzzed off the endorphins we rolled out Table Rock Rd.

Why haven't you left yet?

Rampage

On Monday Dalton and I went a bouldering rampage. We each destroyed at least 20 boulder problems and between us we put up 4 FAs. We started at this amazing field that I had never been to. It was called the sketchy boulders or something and in a local hardman's backyard. The boulders were rad and had a crazy crimpy conglomerate brand of rock. We threw down for a while and found this incredible high ball line starting on a loaf of crystal jammed in a crack. After getting the deadpoint first move and several others I finally reached a tiny crimp and another tiny gaston. As my feet cut and I was really pulling down hard my left hand crimper broke and I did a 180 and fell 15 feet onto my stomach. Next attempt I stuck it.

Crystal Uppercut V5

We then moved on down the line to another secretive spot up off the parkway. Here we found the jackpot. Dalton showed me a boulder he had been scoping for over a year. We spent close to an hour cleaning out all the moss and lichen.

Dalton Trying Hard on the First Move on Whale Cancer

The left most line Dalton crushed second attempt. He hasn't decide on a name but it was a cool V3 with a wheelchair topout over a huge slab. The line just to right went as well after a good session on it.

Deadpoint to a two finger pocket, match on a bad sloper, hit the lip and then the crux is the mantle which was pretty highball. It took awhile for me to get the courage to really push it out.

Whale Cancer V6

We explored the area some more and there is enormous potential. We worked a couple things but to no avial. Then we headed back down the parkway and finished our last 13 problems, some with Bri and Alex, at Grandmother. By the time we drove out that night we were barely functioning. A victory beer and a delirious ride back ended our rampage for the day.