Thursday, June 25, 2009

Rampage

On Monday Dalton and I went a bouldering rampage. We each destroyed at least 20 boulder problems and between us we put up 4 FAs. We started at this amazing field that I had never been to. It was called the sketchy boulders or something and in a local hardman's backyard. The boulders were rad and had a crazy crimpy conglomerate brand of rock. We threw down for a while and found this incredible high ball line starting on a loaf of crystal jammed in a crack. After getting the deadpoint first move and several others I finally reached a tiny crimp and another tiny gaston. As my feet cut and I was really pulling down hard my left hand crimper broke and I did a 180 and fell 15 feet onto my stomach. Next attempt I stuck it.

Crystal Uppercut V5

We then moved on down the line to another secretive spot up off the parkway. Here we found the jackpot. Dalton showed me a boulder he had been scoping for over a year. We spent close to an hour cleaning out all the moss and lichen.

Dalton Trying Hard on the First Move on Whale Cancer

The left most line Dalton crushed second attempt. He hasn't decide on a name but it was a cool V3 with a wheelchair topout over a huge slab. The line just to right went as well after a good session on it.

Deadpoint to a two finger pocket, match on a bad sloper, hit the lip and then the crux is the mantle which was pretty highball. It took awhile for me to get the courage to really push it out.
Whale Cancer V6

We explored the area some more and there is enormous potential. We worked a couple things but to no avial. Then we headed back down the parkway and finished our last 13 problems, some with Bri and Alex, at Grandmother. By the time we drove out that night we were barely functioning. A victory beer and a delirious ride back ended our rampage for the day.

Sunday, June 14, 2009

Wetness=Reading

So the weather has been ridiculously terrible the entire summer. The drought that occurred the last couple summers has turned into 40 days and 40 nights or rain every month. So instead of climbing outside I've been climbing in the gym or reading. On the same note I've finished two more books.

3.The Wal-Mart Effect:How the World's Most Powerful Company Really Works, and How It's Transforming the American Economy by Charles Fishman

A really interesting read about one of the most powerful and notoriously secretive corporations. Using a lot of research and interviews with Wal-Mart insiders Fishman paints a comprehensive picture of Wal-Mart that falls somewhere in between capitalist adoration and unsubstantiated left-wing attacks. While the corporation, Fishman argues, has greatly improved efficiency in distribution, data collection and other areas of business Wal-Mart's overall effect is negative. Although claiming to create hundreds of jobs, average net job growth was approximately 30 jobs in a given community, furthermore although the company is 10% of America's GDP it statistically creates poverty in communities. Also the way in which they squeeze suppliers into selling their products cheaper and cheaper every year has accelerated the outsourcing of jobs as well as creating questionable environmental and labor problems in impoverished countries. Fishman though ends the book with an optimistic idea for the future: what if Wal-Mart used its immense influence and power it wields to lead the elite corporations of the world to solve many of the problems it has created?

4. What happened: inside the Bush White House and Washington's culture of deception by Scott McClellan

Dear Scott,
Having spent three years as the mouthpiece and first line of defense for the intriguing tragic comedy that was the Bush administration, how could have wrote a more boring book? The nutrition facts framed I saw when I was eating a Baconator at Wendy's is more interesting and less painful to read. To be perfectly honest the point of the book seemed to be a failed last ditch effort at restoring your credibility. Furthermore, I know that you a Bush loyalist, from the worst state I have ever been to, there is no need to try to defend Bush, his policy, leadership style or anything at all. Its not helping your credibility. Here is an example: "Bush is plenty smart enough to be president. But as I've noted, his leadership style is based more on instinct than a deep intellectual debate." A contradiction, I believe is obvious, as are many others in your book. The last chapter focused on your thoughts about changing the permanent campaign mentality that is characteristic of the last two administrations yet you actively supported such actions while working for Bush. Twenty pages at the end of a 200 page book is too little too late. I would only recommend this book to your immediate family.
Your #1 fan,
John

Dolla Dolla Billz Ya'll

So I just got word from the university that I received the Williamsen Study Abroad Scholarship. Basically they are giving me $1500 to help with traveling expenses. This is fantastic for many reasons but mainly for the fact that it pays for my round trip plane ticket. Thanks for all your help Nancy!

Monday, June 8, 2009

Linville Gorge

So a few days ago My girlfriend, Katie and I went down into Linville Gorge to go bouldering with the new rox staff at eagles nest. As always it was amazing albeit hot and buggy. Yet, we got on some cool problems and did a little swimming and drankin.
This is one of coolest lines that I have seen down there. A V1 or V2 that starts on the left and goes across the entire edge to the very top. Easy top out but bad landing.


Another cool problem down there that I believe is called Joey's Roof. I swam across so here is me sending in me underwear, for style points. I think that bumps the grade up a lil bit. The hike out was brutal per usual but I was pretty drunk so that helped. All in all a fantastic day.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

1st Post

So here is my blog. I have few things I want to chronicle here: my progression as a climber, my preparation and journey to Dubai and any more immediate goals or hijinks for this summer in Boone, NC.

To start things off right here is a video of me climbing a unknown highball arete at Rocktown, GA perhaps a second ascent but who knows.


One goals I have for this summer is to read 100 books. I started a couple days ago and I have so far read two:
  1. When You Are Engulfed in Flames by David Sedaris
  2. Waiting for an Ordinary Day: The Unraveling of Life in Iraq by Farnaz Fassihi.