Friday, March 18, 2011


Today was wonderful. One of the most calm, relaxing days of climbing I have ever had. There was no rush to the day.

I slept late and waled Ponyo (Justins new dog) and relaxed until I felt like climbing. That was after coffee. I spent the day exploring hound ears and reveling in the crimpy madness of it all. Sent many new problems that I couldn't do 2/3 years ago when I last came here. Send of the day was definitely flashing The Blade V6. I spent a long time sussing out my beta and mentally rehearsing and it paid off handsomely.

Halfway through the day I leisurely drove back the 5 minutes to Justin's house, drank some more coffee, ate and watched some TV. After an hour or so rolled back out and spent the remaining two hours of daylight working on Fuc Yo V9 which feels really hard but possible. This is my final goal for the trip. I spent the sunset sitting on top of one of the "Hound Ears" drinking PBR.

I realized I was fretting over some decisions today as the sun set. The most difficult being the likelihood of rain tomorrow. Sometimes life is hard.

Spent most of the day today driving from Charlotte to Boone which in general shouldn't take all day. But the mix of beer, too little sleep and daylight saving time made for a slow start.

I finally had that feeling I've been dreaming about now for months. Total freedom, mobility, ecstasy, friends and climbing all kind of rolled into a delicious ball. It usually comes about when I have the windows rolled down and bumpin some loud music and today it was no different

The idea that I could stop anywhere and take a nap and then go climbing wherever I wanted is amazing. So I went to grandmother Mountain with only a couple problems on my tick list and no real expectations. All of them had felt impossible last time I was there months ago. After warming up and reconfiguring my beta I sent Clamper V8 relatively quickly. It's tall and squeezy and with no one there to spot me the topout was a little nervey.

Now I am at Justin and Sarah's just relaxing with my own guest bedroom in a gated community with its own boulderfield. After a lot of sleep I plan to crush it up then down.

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Clamper

Here is a great problem from Grandmother Mountain! This is Clamper!!

Clamper from John McCauley on Vimeo.



This problem seemed impossible 6 months ago but went rather quickly. This is from the first day of my climbing adventure. Off to a great start! Come join me!!!

Freeeedom

Today is the beginning of my grand adventure

I spent most of the day pimping my rig. I cleaned out my car and for those you who are in the know, that never happens. By taking apart an old wooden bed frame I jerry-rigged a sleeping platform with two drawers to hold my clothes other miscellaneous things. It took me most of the day.

Though throughout out the day I had scattered all my belonging in my yard while I tried my hand at carpentry. It also just happened to be "Bulky Pick Weekend" where all the crazy people from town come to rummage through other peoples unwanted shit that is piled along the roads. On more then one occasion today I had these junkies walk right past me and eye my climbing bag, crash pad and gear.

"No you can't have all my possessions!"

I have my life now stowed away (somewhat) neatly all inside my Vibe and am parked at Chris's place down here in Charlotte chillin with some old friends. We shall have a grand ol time like we always do.

Honestly it feels a little uncomfortable but all I have to do tomorrow is whatever I want.

Saturday, February 26, 2011

Seasons Change

Photo Cred: Katie Long

I dug up some footage from this winter and just thought I would share. I had some crazy good times at LRC, climbing with so many amazing people. On just these two problems alone I climbed with: Lana, Bri, Andrew, Carl, Brent, Brian, Kit, Warren, Josh, so many others and sent it on a day when the Boone crew rolled 12 deep. Madness. That has to be the best part of climbing.

Seasons Change - Two from LRC from John McCauley on Vimeo.

Heres to more good times!

Monday, February 21, 2011

Chattnasty Summer/Fall LRC Video

So I've been sitting on this pile of footage for a while. I sporadically took some video over the summer and early fall while exploring/training for the Triple Crown.



The climbing at LRC is everything you've heard, amazing, a little slabby, full of slimpers and incredibly concentrated. There is something for everybody and I spent more of my time here climbing then any other single area. So good!!!! I've got beta for days so let go climb there.

I've got a couple more vids worth of footage that I am working on. These won't take 4 months, promise.

Little Rock City - Summer/Fall 010' from John McCauley on Vimeo.



Thanks for all the love on the last post. Its amazing having a groups of friends who have your back when you make a ridiculous decision. Also you are all now contractually obligated to: let me sleep on your couch and feed me.

PUT ON!

Saturday, February 12, 2011

No Comment

Jarred awake at 5am, my heart pumping uncontrollably, why do I feel this way?

Today I am quitting my job and becoming a full time climber at least for a little while. The idea of being unemployed, now, when most of my friends are struggling to find work has been keeping me up at night. But I know it is something I must do.

14 hours later, I'm still shaking a little bit, and I can smell my armpits nervously sweating, as I walk into the cash office to tell my boss.
"Uh,eerrrr,uh bear with me here but I want to put in my two weeks notice."
"OK, can I ask why?" she replied way more relaxed then I was expecting.
"Well I have the opportunity to do something I've always dreamed about and climb full time..."
The look on her face implied "No Comment."

Now, I've got two weeks to: take the GRE, outfit my car, save some money and try to line up a job for the fall before I head out. I'm really psyched, a little bit scared and its too late now to change my mind!