Friday, March 18, 2011


Today was wonderful. One of the most calm, relaxing days of climbing I have ever had. There was no rush to the day.

I slept late and waled Ponyo (Justins new dog) and relaxed until I felt like climbing. That was after coffee. I spent the day exploring hound ears and reveling in the crimpy madness of it all. Sent many new problems that I couldn't do 2/3 years ago when I last came here. Send of the day was definitely flashing The Blade V6. I spent a long time sussing out my beta and mentally rehearsing and it paid off handsomely.

Halfway through the day I leisurely drove back the 5 minutes to Justin's house, drank some more coffee, ate and watched some TV. After an hour or so rolled back out and spent the remaining two hours of daylight working on Fuc Yo V9 which feels really hard but possible. This is my final goal for the trip. I spent the sunset sitting on top of one of the "Hound Ears" drinking PBR.

I realized I was fretting over some decisions today as the sun set. The most difficult being the likelihood of rain tomorrow. Sometimes life is hard.

Spent most of the day today driving from Charlotte to Boone which in general shouldn't take all day. But the mix of beer, too little sleep and daylight saving time made for a slow start.

I finally had that feeling I've been dreaming about now for months. Total freedom, mobility, ecstasy, friends and climbing all kind of rolled into a delicious ball. It usually comes about when I have the windows rolled down and bumpin some loud music and today it was no different

The idea that I could stop anywhere and take a nap and then go climbing wherever I wanted is amazing. So I went to grandmother Mountain with only a couple problems on my tick list and no real expectations. All of them had felt impossible last time I was there months ago. After warming up and reconfiguring my beta I sent Clamper V8 relatively quickly. It's tall and squeezy and with no one there to spot me the topout was a little nervey.

Now I am at Justin and Sarah's just relaxing with my own guest bedroom in a gated community with its own boulderfield. After a lot of sleep I plan to crush it up then down.

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Clamper

Here is a great problem from Grandmother Mountain! This is Clamper!!

Clamper from John McCauley on Vimeo.



This problem seemed impossible 6 months ago but went rather quickly. This is from the first day of my climbing adventure. Off to a great start! Come join me!!!

Freeeedom

Today is the beginning of my grand adventure

I spent most of the day pimping my rig. I cleaned out my car and for those you who are in the know, that never happens. By taking apart an old wooden bed frame I jerry-rigged a sleeping platform with two drawers to hold my clothes other miscellaneous things. It took me most of the day.

Though throughout out the day I had scattered all my belonging in my yard while I tried my hand at carpentry. It also just happened to be "Bulky Pick Weekend" where all the crazy people from town come to rummage through other peoples unwanted shit that is piled along the roads. On more then one occasion today I had these junkies walk right past me and eye my climbing bag, crash pad and gear.

"No you can't have all my possessions!"

I have my life now stowed away (somewhat) neatly all inside my Vibe and am parked at Chris's place down here in Charlotte chillin with some old friends. We shall have a grand ol time like we always do.

Honestly it feels a little uncomfortable but all I have to do tomorrow is whatever I want.